Many of you pointed out to me or
have remarked that my outburst of negativity in January deserves a gut
check. If I hate it so much, why am I
here? Many have offered advice and
comfort, good advice and real comfort. I
got 3 valentines, two very wonderful handwritten letters and a surprising care
package from my sister Becky.
(Surprising not because she isn’t caring, thoughtful and generous, but
because it came out of the blue.) My
latest bout of gastro-enteritis solved itself with Pepto-Bismol and BRAT (no
antibiotic intervention required), and,
after a spate of truly horrible hot steamy days and nights, the weather is a
bit cooler now as we progress toward
rainy season. For these and other reasons
I ‘m in an incredibly cheerful mood, and thought that it was time for On the
Other Hand: Ten Things about Tanzania
that I Love.
Not a complete list, and only so
far. But I don’t want to bore you, my
faithful readers.
1. Packeties.
You have to understand that booze is more sinful here in TZ than it is
in the US. There are many fundamentalist
Christians and Muslims who practice abstinence, and women in general are not
culturally ‘allowed’ to drink. There
are, of course, many alcoholics, and alcohol abuse is evident, especially in
places where jobs and money are scarce.
Ambivalence about
liquor leads I think to a manner in which hard liquor is served in TZ that I
find convenient and worthy of importation to America. Packeties are plastic sachets (little packets)
of TZ-made liquor. The type equivalents are
rough: Konyagi is ‘gin’, Valeur is ‘brandy’,
and Zed is, well, flavored ‘rum’, I guess.
The packets are 500ml, a ‘tot’ or shot.
Available in bars and by the box of twenty at liquor stores, for the
Tanzanian it means that there is no ordering of ‘mixed drinks’ in a bar, or, as
we used to say in Waco, liquor by the drink. The barmaid brings you a soft
drink and a packetie. As a service, she
will cut it open for you, but she is not ‘serving’ liquor. For me there is the
advantage of inventory and portion control. You count up how many empty packeties
you have, and that’s how many drinks you’ve had. Keeps
me honest, especially when I ‘m trying to keep it to 1 at cocktail hour.
They are also
cheaper to buy than a bottle of booze.
The general TZ Rule of Pricing applies:
if you have enough money to buy a lot, you can afford to pay more. In other words, the reverse of volume discounting
prevails.
The portability
is especially appealing. No need to carry a glass bottle around, or transfer to
a flask. Going to a BYOB party? Packeties can be tucked in pocket or purse,
and they make excellent falsies. By the
time you are not false advertising, the guy who may be attracted by said false advertising
is probably too drunk to care. You
certainly are.
Finally, they can
be stored in any corner of the freezer, a boon when ice is at a premium and a
cold libation a must.
The downsides are
few. The obvious one is that this is
Tanzanian booze, not aged in the barrel or anywhere near that. Kinda raw. So you need to mix with a soft
drink, fruit juice, or tonic for a palatable highball. My personal fav is Valeur with Coke and a
squeeze of lime.
Also, and this
harkens back to the ambivalent attitude about drinking that prevails, they are
not sold in dukas or in grocery stores.
There are also not many liquor stores, although you can buy them to
carry away at bars. The advantage there
is that they cost hardly any more by the piece in a bar than they do when you
purchase a whole box (see: Rule of
Pricing, above).
Also, they are
hard to open. It almost takes more than
teeth, and with a knife you are going to have some spillage. The plastic is extremely durable, thick and
tough, due to the corrosive nature of alcohol, I guess. Rule of Thumb, your Leatherman or Swiss Army
knife should be equipped with scissors.
Other things I
love about Tanzania are:
2. Fresh
fruit and minimally processed raw nuts.
Mangoes, bananas, passion fruit, watermelon, grapes, even apples, and
berries in season. Almonds, cashews,
peanuts, walnuts. All widely available ripe and delicious.
3. I
love having clothes made to order from colorful cotton cloth. Also purses, head wraps, and napery.
4. Care
packages from home. Although, I think I
have enough Q-Tips, thank you guys. I
have about 2 thousand.
5. Almost
all the native trees have flowers.
Jacaranda, cassia, kapok, jasmine, mlonge, flamboyant, bottle brush. All colors, all shapes, all sizes. I’m sure
you know in the abstract that Africa teems with life. Usually, this means bugs, and maybe snakes. But it also means plants. They strive and compete for a place here, and
for trees that means big, attractive flowers.
The accompanying birds are incredibly varied and fun to watch, too.
6. Things
really are cheap, and when you find the sweet spot between serviceable, durable
and extremely affordable, that’s a good place to be.
7. I
love being part of the Peace Corps. I
thought I would, and I do.
8. Tinga
Tinga paintings. They make me smile.
9. I
love living out in the country. This is
probably the only time I will ever do it unless I move back to the farm in
Waco. (Possible, but not likely.) The stars and moon, the quiet, the big
vistas, the rambles over trails and little country roads. Getting up early, not watching TV, and
country people all add to my pleasure. I
think a lot about the farm in Waco, and my grandparents’ life there. All good, all extremely good things.
10. The
love I feel for my students makes my heart feel wonderful. It may be healthy, even, but anyway, I love
the love.
.
I completely agree with you (except I don't live in the country)! All very wonderful things about Tanzania!
ReplyDeleteI sounds wonderful!
ReplyDelete